Unfortunately, the dramatic September history of Vilnius has fallen into complete oblivion. The city defended itself for only one day, because the commander-in-chief in this area, General Józef Olszyna-Wilczyński, sent an order from Grodno that Polish soldiers should stop fighting and withdraw to Lithuania. Alone and broken, he also set off for the border, but before he reached it, he met Red Army soldiers and was murdered by them...
Meanwhile, before the war, Vilnius was an important garrison city, there was also the so-called Fortified Area, intended to be an important point of resistance in the event of Soviet aggression. It’s just that a fight with two enemies had no chance and could at most be a kind of political demonstration.
Tourists willingly visit the historical museum in the Lower Castle – the Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania. If you look closely at it, you will see that it was built in a very mixed style: the east wing is Gothic, the south wing is Renaissance, and the south-west is Baroque. Standing in the inner courtyard, we will see fragments of a building that does not really fit in with the rest. This is the former Villa Podzamcze, incorporated into the palace building, before the war the only remnant of the Lower Castle, housing the Army Inspectorate (there were several such inspectorates throughout the country, subordinate to the General Inspector of the Armed Forces).
The last army inspector stationed in Vilnius was General Stefan Dąb-Biernacki, commander of the Reserve “Prussia” Army in the September Campaign. However, there is no chance to visit another important military facility, the former command of the Fortified Area. Today, this pretty building houses the Ministry of National Defense of Lithuania.
So it is worth seeing something that an ordinary tourist will not see for sure and go to Šeškinė. You have to park your car on one of the streets in the vicinity of the shopping centre – where exactly, someone local should explain. Then go down to a slightly recessed area leading along the hill. There are entrances to the former Polish ammunition magazines. Corridors were carved into the hillside and modern concrete tunnels and large chambers were built. Similar facilities were built in several locations; they had two entrances each with characteristic doors, above which there were round ventilation openings.
Above the opening there was a relief of the White Eagle holding a wreath in its paws, surrounding the opening. Today only the wreaths remain, whereas the eagles were meticulously chipped off. Some of the warehouses can be entered, although it is very dirty inside, and sometimes you can come across colonies of bats. It is a pity that there is no chance of creating even a small museum of the Fortified Area here…
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There are similar warehouses in Belmont, in a beautifully arranged park. The plaque in Lithuanian informs that they were established “during the Polish occupation”. Most of them are also inhabited by large colonies of bats, protected by law. The entrances to them look identical to those from Šeškinė, in some places the traces of eagles are more visible. If you climb the hill, you can see the remains of the ammunition chamber ventilation system.
It is also worth taking the street towards Naujoji Vilnia (Nowa Wilejka), that is to say towards the vicinity of the former Batory Route. On the right, there are pre-war Polish fortifications, now easily accessible, which were supposed to block access to Vilnius in the event of a Soviet aggression. In 1939, they were not used because they were not occupied by soldiers; if any attack was expected, it was rather German and from a different direction. They can be reached via a carefully constructed wooden path and stairs. The Lithuanian-language boards accurately describe the shelter located there – the position of a heavy machine gun.
Climbing a little higher, we have a chance to see a beautiful panorama of the Vilnia river valley. In the past, there was a telescope by the wooden balustrade to observe the area, but it was dismantled because there is a characteristic black building nearby, the private house of Lithuanian President Gitanas Nausėda, who prefers to live there than in the official presidential residence. It is better not to look into the presidential house... And on the other side of the road leading to Naujoji Vilnia, there is another Polish shelter, but hidden behind trees and bushes.
What does “Ponas Tadas” mean?
But Vilnius is not only about history and beautiful, old houses or fortifications overgrown with greenery. They are also our compatriots who live in this city. According to official data, it is 16% of its inhabitants. There are fewer Lithuanians here today (over 60%) than there were Poles before the war (66%). In the Vilnius region (i.e. around the capital of Lithuania), our compatriots make up about half of all inhabitants; in the neighboring region of: Šalčininkai – nearly 80%, Trakai – about 30%, and Švenčionys – about a quarter of the population.